How do you know where your hem should hit? A simple rule of thumb is that skirts and dresses should fall just to the top of your knee, above the kneecap; if you are tall you can go a little longer. But if you’re petite, or if you have short legs, keep hemlines on the high side.

A skirt that hits in the wrong place will age you faster than those gray hairs you’re worrying about. A short skirt on a woman over 25 can look desperate, while a too-long skirt looks dowdy. Instead of hiking up your hemline to sexy up your look (or dropping the line of your skirt for modesty’s sake) think about the overall shape of your dress and your body.

Let’s look at some Don’ts.

The dress on the left is far too short; it makes even the model (who we all know is a size 0) look wide through the middle. Oh Banana Republic designers, what were you thinking? (Cotton t-shirt dress, $59.50 — which is far too much money for something that unflattering.)

Afraid of winding up with a too-short hemline? Don’t go long to protect yourself — the second dress here isn’t any better. That super long skirt is dowdy, more Maria Von Trapp than Michelle Obama. (Silk blend pleated dress, $130.00, also from Banana Republic.)

The right hemline makes all the difference.

Not only is the hem on this dress the perfect length (it hits the model just above the kneecap) but the proportions are good; the nipped in top and the tulip skirt are sexy and sophisticated without being tight or revealing. And the bright, bold necklace is a perfect foil to the sleek white dress. This is a great evening look for a grown up woman. (Strapless faille dress, Banana Republic, $98.00.)

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